Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Compared to the Nineties.
A chance encounter on the London Underground in 1988 altered the path of a teenage Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the capital's vibrant 1990s cultural landscape, moving from model to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the style editor of i-D magazine.
"That time was the height of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be close. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that energy."
While Enninful may seem sentimental, he is in good company. Lately, a longing look back of the 1990s has become pervasive. Yet since that time, Enninful feels a noticeable regression. "I feel, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "It’s not even this country – it’s everywhere."
A Cultural Backslide
This regression is difficult to overlook: the rise of populist movements, the reaction against social awareness, and the reassertion of narrow beauty standards. Replacing the hope of the previous decade, today a more divisive political personality looms as a potential leader. Even, the Union Jack, once an badge of Cool Britannia, has sparked debate once more.
According to Enninful, the antidote has consistently been to promote culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the guiding principle behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, including a broad spectrum of influential figures from art.
"Those in a position of influence should employ it," he comments, referring to those editorial decisions. "Everyone talks about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain were not a welcoming country, if it refused my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I cherished. I hope this period will fade."
A New Wave of Consciousness
He draws solace in the youth of today: "They are far more conscious than we were. They talk about unconscious bias – I was not even aware what that was."
The beginnings of his career would define a groundbreaking career marked by fearlessness and diversity. Enninful broke barriers as the first man, first black man, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to take the helm at British Vogue. His leadership featured diverse covers showcasing people of diverse backgrounds, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and individuals from all walks of life. Importantly, sales grew.
"When you ignore vast segments of the population, it’s more than that you’re excluding people – it’s bad for business," he explains.
A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'
He has established his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his key endeavour since leaving his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "innovator".
"I constantly interrogate the established norms. I was raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the physicians, the lawyers, the leader. Then we came to England, without funds, and I became the 'other'. I was incredibly timid. My teachers predicted I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a unique perspective both an insider and outsider."
Defying the popular image of fashion editors as brash and temperamental, Enninful is calm and exudes calm. His journey has involved hardship, including well-documented battles with mental health and addiction.
He has also faced serious health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, leading to impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a difficult period for two years, not working, anxious I was going to lose my sight. It’s similar to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."
A Foray into Curation
This refusal to be typecast has inspired him away from the realm that established him. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a host of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to capture the decade's creative cross-pollination – and highlight those who lacked a spotlight at the time.
"Galleries sometimes neglected to promote the right artists because they weren't of the traditional credentials," he states.
This project itself uses a unique approach, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "We ask, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is one component of a broader vision."
A Testament to Resilience
Currently, Enninful operates as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His story, he feels, is a demonstration to the power of pursuing your passions.
What would the younger Edward make of the man he has become? He smiles. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be proud. In those days I was a rebel. I never imagined institutions like Tate were necessarily for me."
He reflects. "Nothing is assumed. We lost our home, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have doubted me my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve made up my mind to do something."
